A door may stick because it has sagged on its hinges, swollen from moisture, shifted out of alignment, developed latch interference, or begun pressing too firmly against its weatherstripping. Finding the exact contact point before making adjustments helps prevent unnecessary cutting or hardware replacement.

Before You Start

Tools and materials you may need:

• Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
• Pencil or removable marking tape
• Flashlight
• Level or straightedge
• Tape measure
• Appropriate replacement screws
• Wood repair material for damaged screw holes
• Door- or hinge-compatible lubricant
• Sandpaper or sanding block for minor wood-door corrections
• Hand plane for controlled removal from a solid wood edge
• Paint, primer, or sealer for exposed wood
• Replacement weatherstripping, when needed
• Safety glasses and work gloves

Important: Do not begin by sanding or planing the door. Material removal is permanent and may create a large gap once loose hinges, seasonal swelling, or frame alignment is corrected.

Do not sand or plane metal, fiberglass, hollow-core, fire-rated, or specialty doors unless the manufacturer specifically permits that modification.

The correct repair depends on how the door is supported and operated.

Hinged Door

Swings on butt hinges, adjustable hinges, or pivot hardware. Common causes include loose screws, sagging, frame contact, hinge wear, swelling, latch misalignment, and compressed weatherstripping.

Sliding Patio Door

Moves horizontally on rollers inside a sill track. Common causes include dirty tracks, worn or misadjusted rollers, frame distortion, a dragging lock, damaged guides, or debris beneath the panel.

Sliding Screen Door

Uses lighter rollers and a separate screen-door track. Bent frames, worn wheels, track debris, or incorrect roller height commonly cause resistance.

Open and close the door slowly while watching and listening for contact.

Common contact locations include:

• The upper latch-side corner
• The top edge near the head jamb
• The latch-side edge
• The bottom edge against the threshold, flooring, or carpet
• The hinge-side edge against the jamb
• The latch bolt against the strike plate
• Weatherstripping around the perimeter

Use a pencil or removable tape to mark the contact area. Look for rubbed paint, polished wood, compression marks, scratches, torn weatherstripping, or a narrow gap on one side and a wide gap on the other.

Do not assume that the location of the rubbing is the source of the problem. A door rubbing at the upper latch-side corner is often being pulled downward by loose or worn hinge hardware on the opposite side.

The narrow gap between the door and frame is commonly called the reveal. Compare it along the top, latch side, and hinge side.

Look for:

• A gap that becomes narrower toward one corner
• A top edge that is no longer parallel with the head jamb
• A latch-side gap that is wide near the top and narrow near the bottom
• One hinge leaf pulling away from the jamb or door
• A door that has dropped enough to contact the threshold
• A frame that appears bowed or out of square

Loose hinge screws allow the door to sag and are one of the most common causes of upper-corner or threshold contact.

1. Open the door far enough to access each hinge.
2. Support the outer edge of a heavy door when necessary.
3. Tighten the screws in the door-side hinge leaves.
4. Tighten the screws in the jamb-side hinge leaves.
5. Close the door and check the reveal again.

Tighten screws only until the hinge is seated securely. Excessive force may strip the hole, distort the hinge, or crush the surrounding material.

If a screw turns without tightening, the mounting hole or surrounding material may require repair before the hinge can hold securely.

A screw that spins without tightening cannot hold the hinge leaf firmly against the door or jamb.

Possible repairs include:

• Using an appropriate longer screw that reaches sound framing
• Installing a slightly larger compatible screw when the hinge allows it
• Repairing a wood hole with a properly fitted wood plug and adhesive
• Using the correct thread-repair method for a metal frame
• Repairing damaged composite or fiberglass material according to the door manufacturer’s instructions

Match the screw-head shape to the hinge. A raised or oversized head may prevent the hinge leaves from closing together properly.

Tight screws will not correct a hinge that is bent, worn, cracked, or separating at the pin.

Check for:

• Loose or rising hinge pins
• Excessive movement between the hinge knuckles
• Bent hinge leaves
• Cracks around the mounting holes
• Heavy rust or corrosion
• Missing screws
• A hinge mortise that is too deep or too shallow
• Adjustable hinges that have moved out of position

Lubrication may correct squeaking, stiffness, or corrosion-related resistance at the hinge pin. It will not correct sagging, a warped frame, or physical contact between the door and jamb.

1. Protect nearby flooring and painted surfaces.
2. Remove loose dust and dirt from the hinge.
3. Apply a small amount of compatible lubricant at the hinge pin and knuckles.
4. Open and close the door several times.
5. Wipe away excess lubricant.

Avoid saturating wood, paint, weatherstripping, flooring, or surrounding finishes.

A door that drags at the bottom may be sagging, but the interference may also come from changes below the door.

Inspect for:

• A raised or loose threshold
• New carpet, flooring, or transition trim
• A damaged door sweep
• Debris beneath the door
• A warped lower rail
• Moisture damage at the door bottom
• A threshold adjustment screw that has shifted

Correct loose or adjustable threshold components before removing material from the door.

Remove material only after confirming that the hinges are secure, the frame is stable, the threshold is correct, and the contact is not caused by a temporary obstruction.

For a minor contact point:

1. Mark the exact rubbing area.
2. Remove the door when needed for safe access.
3. Sand a small amount from the marked area.
4. Keep the edge straight and follow the original bevel.
5. Rehang and test the door frequently.

For heavier contact on a solid wood edge:

1. Use a sharp hand plane in controlled passes.
2. Remove only a small amount at a time.
3. Avoid splintering the face veneer or edge.
4. Test the fit before removing more material.

Prime, paint, or seal every exposed wood surface after fitting the door. Unsealed wood may absorb moisture and swell again.

Do not overcorrect: A large gap can create drafts, water intrusion, reduced security, poor latch engagement, and visible light around the door.

Wood doors and frames may expand during humid weather or after absorbing water.

Look for:

• Seasonal sticking that appears during humid periods
• Peeling paint or failed sealant
• Soft, darkened, cracked, or swollen wood
• Water staining near the threshold
• Missing drip protection or failed exterior caulk
• A damaged sweep allowing water beneath the door
• Indoor humidity that remains unusually high

A dehumidifier may reduce temporary indoor swelling, but continuing water intrusion must be corrected at its source.

Rotted or structurally damaged wood should be repaired or replaced rather than simply sanded until the door closes.

A door may swing freely but resist during the final inch of closing because the latch bolt does not align with the strike-plate opening.

Check for:

• Scrape marks above or below the strike opening
• A loose strike plate
• A latch bolt that contacts the front edge of the plate
• A plate that has shifted away from its original position
• A deadbolt that does not align with its strike
• Excessive weatherstrip pressure preventing full closure

To correct minor misalignment:

1. Tighten the strike-plate screws.
2. Confirm that hinge sag has already been corrected.
3. Mark where the latch contacts the plate.
4. Loosen and reposition the strike slightly when the screw holes allow it.
5. File only a small amount from the strike opening when appropriate.
6. Tighten the plate and test the latch repeatedly.

Do not enlarge the strike opening enough to weaken security or allow excessive door movement.

Weatherstripping should compress enough to create a seal without requiring excessive force to close or latch the door.

Inspect for:

• Weatherstripping that is folded, twisted, or pulled out of its kerf
• An incorrect profile or thickness
• Paint buildup along the sealing surface
• A torn or hardened gasket
• A door sweep dragging too heavily on the threshold
• Uneven compression around the perimeter
• Visible light or drafts after the door is closed

Reinstall displaced weatherstripping or replace damaged material with a compatible profile.

Do not automatically substitute a thinner seal solely to make the door easier to close. The replacement must still provide suitable weather protection.

A sticking door may be caused by the frame rather than the door panel.

Use a level or straightedge to inspect:

• The hinge-side jamb
• The latch-side jamb
• The head jamb
• The threshold
• The face of the door panel

Possible frame-related causes include:

• Loose frame fasteners
• Overtightened installation screws
• Building movement or settlement
• Swollen or rotted framing
• Improper shimming
• A threshold that is no longer level
• A frame distorted by expanding insulation or surrounding construction

Professional evaluation may be appropriate: Continuing frame movement, significant settlement, water damage, cracked framing, or a door that suddenly becomes severely misaligned may indicate a larger structural or installation problem.

A sliding patio door does not use hinges, so the repair process is different.

Check the following:

• Dirt, stones, hair, and hardened debris inside the sill track
• A damaged or dented roller track
• Worn, seized, broken, or flat-spotted rollers
• Incorrect roller-height adjustment
• A panel that is no longer square inside the frame
• A lock or keeper dragging during movement
• Weatherstripping folded into the panel path
• A damaged top guide or anti-lift device
• A warped or distorted patio-door frame

Clean the track before adjusting or replacing components. Roller adjustments should be made gradually and evenly so the panel remains level and the lock continues to align with its keeper.

Avoid applying greasy lubricant to a track when the roller manufacturer or door design does not call for it, as it may collect additional dirt and debris.

1. Open the door through its complete normal range.
2. Close it slowly without forcing it.
3. Watch the reveal around the frame.
4. Confirm that the door clears the threshold and flooring.
5. Test the latch and deadbolt.
6. Check that weatherstripping compresses evenly.
7. Confirm that the door remains stable in the open position.
8. Check for drafts, visible light, or water-entry gaps.

Make one controlled adjustment at a time. Testing between corrections makes it easier to identify which repair solved the problem.

Upper Latch-Side Corner Rubs

• Check for loose upper-hinge screws.
• Inspect hinge wear and sagging.
• Compare the top reveal from hinge side to latch side.
• Check whether the frame has shifted out of square.

Bottom Edge Drags

• Check all hinge screws.
• Inspect the threshold and flooring.
• Check the door sweep.
• Look for moisture damage or swelling.

Door Stops at the Latch

• Inspect latch-to-strike alignment.
• Check for hinge sag before moving the strike.
• Look for excessive weatherstrip compression.
• Confirm that the door is fully seated against its stops.

Entire Edge Feels Tight

• Inspect for humidity swelling.
• Check the frame with a straightedge.
• Look for thick paint buildup.
• Confirm the correct weatherstripping profile.

Sliding Door Is Hard to Move

• Clean the track.
• Inspect and adjust the rollers.
• Check panel alignment and lock clearance.
• Inspect the track for dents or wear.

• Sanding the door before checking the hinges
• Removing too much material at once
• Leaving exposed wood unsealed
• Overtightening hinge screws
• Using the wrong screw-head shape
• Ignoring worn or bent hinges
• Moving the strike plate to compensate for severe hinge sag
• Filing the strike opening excessively
• Installing weatherstripping that is too thick
• Ignoring water intrusion or rotted wood
• Assuming a sliding door has the same causes as a hinged door
• Lubricating a dirty sliding track without inspecting the rollers
• Making several adjustments before testing the first one

Before considering the repair complete, confirm:

• The exact contact point was identified.
• The reveal around the door was inspected.
• All hinges and mounting screws are secure.
• Damaged screw holes were repaired correctly.
• Hinge pins and knuckles move normally.
• The threshold and flooring are clear.
• Moisture damage and swelling were evaluated.
• The latch and strike align correctly.
• Weatherstripping seals without excessive resistance.
• The door opens and closes through its full range.
• The lock operates without being forced.
• Any exposed wood was sealed.

Start by finding the exact point of contact and inspecting the gap around the door. Loose hinges, damaged screw holes, latch misalignment, threshold interference, moisture swelling, and weatherstripping pressure can all create similar symptoms.

Correct hardware and alignment problems before removing material. Sanding or planing should be limited to suitable wood doors and followed by sealing the exposed surface.

For a sliding patio door, inspect the track, rollers, guides, weatherstripping, panel alignment, and lock rather than applying hinged-door repair methods.